A pint-sized pub guide

It’s no small task to separate Edinburgh and the consumption of alcohol – Scotland’s oldest pub, the Sheep Heid, just happens to be situated in the city. Named after a snuff box carved in the shape of a ram’s head and presented to the landlord by King James VI in 1580, the pub has been around since 1360 and, as such, has been privy to the events which have shaped the history of Scotland. Bonnie Prince Charlie, for instance, often popped in for a drink during the Jacobite campaign of 1745, and an oil painting of the battle of Prestonpans—which saw the Jacobites rout George II’s Hanoverian army—hangs proudly in the main lounge.

Stuart McHardy—author of The Edinburgh and Leith Pub Guide—has a long and distinguished career as a denizen of the capital’s drinking dens and, as such, is more than sufficiently qualified to pass judgement upon the capital’s watering holes. Edinburgh is home to literally hundreds of pubs – most of which Stuart has assessed: taken from the Guide, here are four of his appraisals.


The Blue Blazer
Spittal Street, Tollcross

Yet another traditional ale house, the Blazer has half a dozen well-kept cask ales, five dozen malts, half a dozen wines and all the usual suspects. Known as a real beer pub, they do a pretty decent line in pies for most of the time. The designers have gone for an authentic bar feel with the wooden floor, pews and old Edinburgh prints on the walls. Some original features like the rood and a fireplace have been retained. A two-roomed bar, the Blazer has a mixed bag of customers – a considerable number of local regulars, a steady passing trade and a few theatrical types, too; the Lyceum Theatre is just round the corner. A comfortable and welcoming spot for good beer.

The Albanach
The Royal Mile

With three cask ales, the Albanach has a fair range of bottled beers and premium lagers on draught, but its claim to fame is the 170 malt whiskies on offer. Add to this cocktails, pitchers and shooters and a substantial wine list, and the up-market intent is obvious. Coffee and food are available throughout the day; mainly Scottish derived high-class pub-grub from their resident chef. The décor is bright, light and modern with an unusual steel bar and wrought ironwork on the chairs. The clientele consists of tourists and law types during the day and a bit of a mix in the evenings. Albanach caters for a younger crowd at the weekends. Sitooterie on the Royal Mile excellent for people watching.

St Vincent Bar
St Vincent Street, Stockbridge

Having recently been taken over by new management, things here may change but the Vincent—refurbished a few years back, in a classic Victorian style that sympathetically reflects the original gantry and bar—has a lovely traditional feel. There are some fine prints and mirrors on the wall which complement the ambience. Having started life as a pub after the First World War, this pub has long had a commitment to real ale, of which currently IPA and four guests are available. The magnificent original gantry contains a fine selection of malts numbering around 150. No food is served other than snacks. There is a pool table at the back of this fine, wee bar, but they have no live music nor, thankfully, a jukebox. The clientele is always mixed with students, workers, locals and suits all mingling freely.

The Guilford Arms
West Register Street, off Rose Street

This magnificent Victorian boozer lies just off the east end of Princes Street on the north side beside Register House. Originally built as a store in 1841, it was eventually converted to its current magnificence in the 1890s. The ornate cornices on the soaring ceiling, the magnificent canopy, the windows and the gantry are all first class. Through the back by the food counter there is a sunken table, which can lead to the odd problem after sampling some of the pub's sterling range of real beers. For many years now the Guilford has been supplying an ever-changing and thoughtful range of delights for the real beer drinking fraternity. It has 10 real ales, constantly picking from the best on offer. The food is from the restaurant upstairs and served noon 'till three. Despite its city centre location, its drink prices are acceptable, too. Beware, though – many an unwary crew has gathered to start off in the Guilford and head off elsewhere only to find the last bell ringing. The staff are pleasant and the pub always well-kept. If you like bust, noisy pubs—with no canned music—or are a fan of the mind-shifting effects of cask conditioned ale, you can hardly do better.