The price of cool

Face to face across the George IV Bridge, Villager and The Outsider stare at each other, quietly sizing up the competition.

Contrary to popular belief, these two restaurants are not under the same management. Villager is born of three “like-minded city gents”, dedicated to the “funk experience” who call themselves Blue Steel Ltd. The Outsider, on the other hand, is sibling to The Apartment on Barclay Place and is run by the recognisable and notoriously aloof Malcolm Innes.

The two restaurants have similarly unassuming fronts. The grey and maroon hues of the paintwork are neither garish nor demanding. The lettering is subtle and understated – in fact The Outsider’s name, vertically inscribed on a panel near the door, is barely visible to the desultory glance of the average passer by. These are two restaurants that do not have to shout their existence over a tannoy to attract custom.

This, though, is where the similarities end. The Outsider leans towards the minimalist simplicity of a gallery space. The sharp corners of the mezzanine, teamed with the mural of dark squares on the central wall give the impression of walking into a greyscale Mondrian painting. The simplicity is kept from dullness by the odd punctuation of several pieces of “artwork” – a blurry print of speeding cars and a black sculpture that looks like a cross between an old fashioned radiator and a CD rack. Villager, on the other hand, steers towards the younger side of “cool”. The easy chairs and sofas give it a plush, laid back feel, while the stencilled Banksy-esque wallpaper treads the popular graffiti-art boundary.

The service in each restaurant seems to match its interior. Villager staff cut an interesting profile. Pierced, tattooed and dressed like students, the emphasis is on the individual. The tendency to crouch beside our table for a chat or to enlighten us to the passions of cocktail making is endearing, if a little put on. On the subject of cocktails, their Smartini deserves a mention. A sweet and thick blend of Absolut Citron and Crème de Cacao nicely set off by the colourful addition of chocolate smarties in the bottom – definitely worth a try. The Outsider staff determinedly blend in to the background. While you might chide them for the occasional inattentiveness, the opportunity to dine in peace was welcome. After all, it calls itself a restaurant, not a common room.

On to the food. Starting with Villager, the chicken and prawn tempura was well done, if a little predictable. The goats cheese bruschetta was better, though the bread was a little thick. The mains were generously portioned, but what they achieved in size, they lacked in flavour. The paella was watery and tasted more like an Italian Ragu than the buttery, saffron infused Spanish dish that it should have. The mixed vegetable curry was similarly bland, overwhelmed by too much coconut milk. The burger was the only main course of real merit. A thick, crumbly, succulent patty so filling that the bun it was sandwiched in was barely necessary. The deserts were fine, but had a certain air of the “shop-bought” about them.

The Outsider, on the other hand, produces some of the best value for money in the city. Their menu boasts a varied selection of innovative dishes of the type that you could easily find in some of the more upmarket eateries in Edinburgh, but at a fraction of the price – averaging at around ten pounds each. The rump of lamb was rich and tender, while the aubergine mash it sat on was novel and moreish. The belly of pork, while a little dry, was perfectly edible and the black pudding base a pleasing textural contrast. The deserts were similarly savoury – the brownie was moist and rich and the plum and almond tart was not too sweet.

While less self-consciously “hip” in the design and service, The Outsider has an oral impact that blows Villager out of the water – remarkable considering that The Outsider is cheaper. While Villager’s trendy-factor lives vicariously through the décor and cocktails, it seems to have left the food uninhabited. Is this the price you pay for “cool”?