Saturday 11 February 2012
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Turkish Delight

A taste of the East on West Preston Street

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Walking into Hanedan on West Preston Street, visitors are warmly greeted by proprietor Gursel Bahar as he works the grill at the front of the restaurant. The restaurant's décor is a mish-mash of colourful throws, fairy lighting and curious artefacts, creating the intimate feeling of actually being in a small corner of Turkey.

We began our Turkish adventure with some delicately flavoured Yaprak Dolma; vine leaves stuffed with rice that so often fail to live up to expectations. These dolma were delicious with gentle citrus and mint flavours. The only criticism would be that they were served slightly on the cold side. We soaked up some olive oil and olives with warm pitta bread, while our mains were cooked right before our eyes.

The Kuzu shish (or lamb-on-a-skewer) served with rice and a gentle chilli sauce literally melted in my mouth. The lamb was marinated sublimely and cooked to perfection. The portion size is well-balanced, just enough to make you feel comfortably satisfied, although I could have happily done with more than a ramekin of the delicious chilli sauce. Please note that a side salad is essential for those not on the Atkins diet.

The mixed grill of lamb, chicken and garlic sausage did not disappoint. Each meat was well-spiced, equally well-cooked and succulent. We mopped up our meat with some refreshing Cacik (yoghurt with cucumber and mint). Vegetarians can skip mains altogether and choose from the range of hot and cold meze.

For dessert, I chose the baklava. Unlike Greek baklava dripping in syrup, Turkish baklava is a little drier but still deliciously sweet and perfectly accompanied by a round of aromatic Turkish coffees.

For lovers of Turkish and Greek food, Hanedan is about as close as you can get to that authentic taste without booking a flight. The service is helpful and attentive, adding to the homely atmosphere. The prices are probably the most delightful surprise: three can eat and drink happily for under £50. Mains range from £8-£9.50 and meze from £2.95-£4.10.

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