Like the Bruntsfield area in which it resides, The Apartment bistro knows it’s got flair, it knows it’s got soul and it doesn’t need to shout about it. From the simple attractive paper menus to the large rustic mirrored wall reflecting a gathering of contented diners, the devil is in the detail and this establishment has honed it to perfection.
Service is attentive and engaging, welcoming you into an elegant warm interior that speaks of individuality and character. Whilst the expected homely comforting environment is retained at the heart of this bistro, sharp and contemporary design touches create a feeling of relaxed sophistication. Thus is the scene set for a modest menu of honest intriguing dishes.
An assuring smoked haddock risotto accompanied by a perfectly cooked, rich poached egg to start (£5.60) warmed the heart and satisfied the stomach. The devilled lambs kidneys (£5.20) were equally sumptuous and heartening, served on a simple base of thick toast. The prospect of pan fried pheasant with bacon whet the appetite for a traditional and flavoursome fare, served with quince and red cabbage (£12.80). This didn't fail to improve upon an established favourite with a delightful flourish. Sharp, tangy quince enlivened and perfectly complemented the subtle game. The mouth-watering pan fried pigeon breast with wild mushrooms and potato galette (£13.20) was also superb; succulent, ruby coins of tender meat were the jewel atop a pleasing, substantial dish.
Utterly content after two marvellous courses, it was clear that the proof did not need to be divined from the pudding. The rich chocolate mousse and pear frangipane were nevertheless both appetising and well presented, providing a satisfying conclusion, if perhaps not quite evoking the same relish that had been derived from the antecedent offerings.
Upon recommendation, the evening was concluded in a pleasing, if unexpected, manner with a smart, refreshing cocktail; confirmation – if we needed it – that this delightful eaterie proffers more than may be expected from a modestly named bistro. We lingered longer than anticipated, savouring the engaging atmosphere and harmony of the interior and cuisine, and stepped outside finding ourselves utterly charmed and assured of swift return.
7–13 Barclay Place EH10 4HW