Edible gold: Edinburgh's cheese shops

As all sensible people know, cheese is the food of the gods. It is often valuable and a lovely yellow colour, rather like gold. In many ways, it is better than gold, as one can eat it without getting heavy metal poisoning, and it tastes fantastic. It is surprising then, that in a city like Edinburgh, there are so few purveyors of fine cheese. Thus, for the benefit of humanity and to save people from having to cope with the abysmal knowledge and standards of supermarkets, I have produced a scavenger’s guide of where to find good cheeses in Edinburgh, and how to eat them.

Due to fidelity to local businesses and just a hint of unashamed snobbery, we will bypass the deli counters of Sainsbury’s and Morrisons. There are enough independent delis in the Old Town to satisfy most cheese cravings if you know where to look. Victor Hugo is good enough to the undiscerning eye; they are well stocked in cheeses from all four corners of Britain, as well as a number from the Continent. Sometimes artisan cheeses are on offer for a limited time, and if anyone wants to expand their repertoire beyond the basic cheddars and bries, then Victor Hugo is a good place to start. Where Victor Hugo disappoints though is the staff, who seem neither enthusiastic nor knowledgeable about the cheeses they sell. Descriptions are provided, but if you’re looking for a proper cheese education, take your business elsewhere.

Peckham’s in Bruntsfield is much more encouraging. With around fifty cheeses available on any given day, their stock is constantly changing depending on what is on offer from their two main suppliers. French cheeses, especially brie, are always popular, but other, more unusual cheeses are also available. Follow the staff suggestions if you are overwhelmed (the Welsh cheeses can be a little daunting in their pronunciation); many of whom have taken courses on cheese (it’s even possible to get a diploma!) and they are happy to share their wisdom. I would suggest exploring some of the more unusual British cheeses, because everyone’s tried Stilton and Applewood cheddar, but have you ever had Y Fenni, which is blended with mustard seeds and ale, or garlic yarg? It’s probably time you did. Y Fenni is amazing as cheese on toast when mixed with a strong cheddar, and Lanark blue can work all kinds of wonders in a cheese sauce.

When it comes to enthusiasm and dedication, the crown for best cheese shop in town would have to be bestowed upon I. J. Mellis. The only known food purveyor that is dedicated solely to cheese, Mellis is committed to sourcing their cheeses directly from the producer, and quality is at the forefront. Their stock changes very little from one year to the next, but with fifteen samples each of Scottish, English and French cheese, plus some Spanish and Italian options, there is enough to keep one exploring for a good while. Unlike the delis, which can get quite full, the staff are rarely too busy to wax lyrical about every item, all of which are known and appreciated like old friends. The enthusiasm is displayed in another unique way: the shop in Victoria Street has an agreement with the Bow Bar (which describes itself as ‘very cheese friendly’) across the road, where one can enjoy the cheese bought from I.J. Mellis with a wee dram. The bar has fashioned a whisky menu that one can consult to find a dram that will best complement your cheese of choice. The Isle of Mull cheddar is a good starting point if you want to explore drink and cheese combinations; the cows which produce the milk for it are fed on brewery hops, making it an excellent complement to wine, whisky or ale.

Now you know where to look for a comprehensive cheese education, so go forth and discover the beauty of cheese for yourself!